But hope is not lost for lovers of fine French brandy. As with many French wine-and-spirits designations, cognac is the name of a place, and just to the south of Cognac, in Gascony, is Armagnac.

The upside of all this negativity in the market is that French vintners ... makes for a fine aperitif this summer. Souleil Vin de Bonte Le Blanc 2022 ($17). A well-fruited white wine from Provence ...